Roads
Kathy Devine — Scarborough, ON
Roads have a special meaning to most people.
They take us to and from work and school. They take us to visit friends and
relatives. Roads are associated with every place we go and every event that
takes place in our lives. Roads symbolize rites of passage from birth to death.
The
three weeks we spent traveling the roads of Uganda allowed us to glimpse how
Ugandans live, work, and play. What a country of contrasts!
As we entered the
capital city of Kampala, traffic came to a stop. Kampala streets are too small
for the number of people and vehicles. Black diesel fumes spewed from vans
and trucks. White taxi vans were filled to overflowing. Newspaper salesmen
rushed up to our windows to sell a copy of The New Vision, The
Monitor, or
The Red Pepper. Women sitting on the sidewalk were selling newspapers and baskets.
Men selling socks or shoes weaved their way through the walkers and cars. Motorcyclists
carrying three or four people darted amongst the cars. Always present were
women carrying babies on their backs.
In the rural areas, the roads became
bumpier and, at times, the pavement ceased to exist. Uniformed children walked
along the sides of the road towards school. Children carried yellow plastic
jerry cans and babies on their backs as they headed toward the well. Goats
tethered by the side of the road were busy chewing grass. Cyclists loaded down
with matoke or furniture were off to sell their wares or returning home with
something new.
Suddenly we'd come across a small village. Speed bumps slowed
us down and shack-like stalls and stores displayed their goods. Coffee beans
on the ground were drying out in the sun. Men sat idle in groups. Broken down
and rusted out cars sat abandoned. Women bent double at the waist were washing
their babies in plastic basins.
Night falls quickly at the equator. One evening
at dusk, around 7 pm, we saw a pregnant woman returning from the fields along
a bumpy mountain road the ever-present baby on her back, a toddler in one hand,
a jerry can of water in the other hand, a basket of produce on her head, and
urging a small herd of goats in front of her. As we proceeded on our way in
the darkness we saw many Ugandans walking along the road on their way to gather
for the evening in one of the small villages that dot the country. Kerosene
lanterns and candles offered light as they talked, purchased goods, or got
haircuts. We continued along the road towards to our final destination for
the night.
After four years of traveling in Uganda with SCAW part of my soul
has been left in this country. As Robert Frost says in his poem “The Road Not
Taken”:
Two roads diverged in a wood and I —
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.