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India: Land of ContrastsMargaret Crossling — Port Elgin, ON Arriving in India was a feast for the senses. Nothing like it can be seen anywhere else. From the moment we arrived in the airport, there was a definite atmosphere. The first thing to notice was an aroma, which to me is India. A bit of smoke, some spiciness, and often a whiff of drains. When we got on the roads we saw the city. The crowds of people walking and riding in buses or taxis and the seeming lack of any traffic laws just astound. Cars, trucks, buses, and rickshaws are driven by people who lean on the horn more often than they change gears. Traffic constantly jostles for position — often coming right at you on the wrong side of the road. With all this activity is the presence of dust on roads and trees and garbage — endless garbage. This gets picked over by animals and humans for anything worth having. Indian life is arranged in the caste system, less rigid than formerly, but still very much in place. The highest caste are Brahmins. Many more castes are lower on the hierarchy. At the very bottom are the untouchables, or Dalits. These people are trying to improve their lot in life. An Indian can tell immediately to which caste a person belongs. One of the ways is by family name. Professions and jobs are directed by caste and marriages are usually between people of the same caste. The main religions in India are Hindu, Muslim, Buddhism, and a small Christian community. Again, most will marry within their own religion. Today, the vast majority of marriages are arranged, but there is an increase in love matches. Parents will arrange a marriage for their son or daughter, sometimes advertising for a bride or groom in the newspaper. It is not uncommon for the bride and groom to meet for the first time at the wedding; however, in the higher castes, there can be some supervised meetings beforehand. Finishing early at one distribution site, we took a trip to a beautiful Jaine temple. I was struck not only with the beauty of this place, but also with the natural curiosity of the children who were enjoying the grounds. We were approached by many wanting to shake our hands, saying, “Hello, Madam,” and “Photo, please?” or wanting to know where we lived. White people are the cause of much head turning in India. All children are naturally curious when someone new appears. It seems that men are still the dominant sex in India, with women taking a more submissive role than in the west. A man wants a well-educated woman for his wife, but she may stay at home after the marriage, especially when the children arrive. Lower down the scale, women will work as maids, and often work at heavy tasks like breaking stones for roads. They can carry large loads on their heads, which would hurt us. There are two types of schools in India: government and private. The opportunity is there for all to have an education but, in fact, the illiteracy rate is high for poor people. Children are needed to bring in money for the family, and begging is rampant. Often the money collected by child beggars is taken by a parent or guardian for drink. Drinking and drug taking is widespread, often with tragic consequences. Many of our Western habits are taboo in India. Never hug or kiss someone out on the street. It is considered rude to give or take anything with the left hand or point at anyone. When entering a house, or even an office or a public building such as a temple, shoes must be removed. It is a miracle that your shoes are still there afterwards, but they always are. Fashions in India have not changed much for women. They nearly always dress in a sari or salwar, a two piece outfit of dress and pants, together with a scarf or dupatta. This is draped across the bosom for modesty. Women do not undress to go swimming. They begin by paddling in the sea, getting wetter and wetter, screaming with excitement. At the swimming pool, those who do go in swimming will probably swim in their salwars. I know, because I have done it. Men do not seem to have the same modesty problems — they wear swimsuits. The poorer people wash their clothes and themselves in tanks, large bodies of water, which is often dirty looking. They continue to be modest and can wash all over without removing their clothing. Men are usually in Western style clothing, but it is common to see lungies, which look like long skirts, often doubled up, and dhotis, like Gandhi wore. A shirt is worn and sometimes a simple turban consisting of a scarf wound around the head. To really see spectacular dress, an Indian wedding tops everything. We were lucky to be at a wedding reception in our hotel. The bride was incredible, in a gold sari, covered in jewels,and beautifully made up. She and the groom stood on a stage to be greeted by the guests, while young men danced and the ladies watched and chatted. Weddings can cost the earth, as hundreds of guests are invited, and the bride received much gold jewelry. It can take years for the family to pay for it all. At the other end of the scale, the street people barely subsist, and others live in dreadful slums. India is a land of great contrasts, but is fascinating, and endlessly interesting. |
